When I spent time in Fortaleza, Brazil in 2022 I learned about a small beach town 45 minutes west of the city called Cumbuco. Locals apparently traveled there on the weekends for great beaches, live music concerts and parties. It is a famous destination for kite surfing (it seems like I am always traveling to famous destinations for kite surfing). So this time around, on my way to visiting Fortaleza again, I spent a week in Cumbuco first to do a reconnaissance trip to get the vibe and feel of it to see if it would be a place I’d like to stay again for longer in the future. Such reconnaissance trips are my modus operandi for sustained livability on the road and serve the purpose of scouting locations without a big, upfront investment. It’s better to spend a few days figuring out a place before I commit to spend a month, or longer there, sight unseen. In this way I can also get a beat on the neighborhood I want to stay in if I return which would be otherwise more difficult to do without being there first. Cumbuco is pretty cool. Well, actually it’s very hot during the […]
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There are a million places to visit in Brazil and João Pessoa is one of them. I had never visited before, but when the opportunity presented itself to stop by for a week on my way to Fortaleza, I did. I rented an apartment right on the beach (a nice beach) with a balcony overlooking it. In the mornings and afternoons I would sit outside and watch and listen to the wind blow through the palm trees as the light slowly faded. I found a big gym nearby that was ideal and only a five minute walk from my apartment (in Havianas). The gym was always packed with people exercising (my favorite type of gym) and though I don’t speak any Portuguese, everyone was friendly. They do this weird thing in Brazil inside the gyms I’ve been to where they have full-time trainers who want to suggest you exercises or workouts to do. They really want to help you but the idea of going to a gym and then having someone tell me what I should be doing is strange. I don’t work for you ma’am! After my morning workout I would eat my favorite Brazilian gluten free sandwich/omelette thing, […]
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Like some other destinations, Sao Paulo has become a regular destination during my yearly migration. Alongside Rio de Janeiro, Sao Paulo is an international hub for flights into the country from the rest of South America. It also accommodates this loop I’ve been toying with between Colombia, Chile, Argentina, and Brazil each year as the city is a 3 hour direct flight from Buenos Aires. Twenty years ago I never would have predicted that I would come to find such large, monstrous cities like Sao Paulo, Mexico City, Seoul and Bogotá some of my favorite places to stay. I grew up in the Midwest and West of the United States and always had plenty of space around with lots of access to nature. Mega cities certainly have provided other amenities. I suppose as a nomadic travel hipster, I’ve often been attracted to atypical appeal of destinations while being also insulated from many discomforts. I avoid traffic by walking or summoning a car service like Uber and I don’t have to commute to an office to do my job. I reduce my exposure to crime by staying in nicer neighborhoods and going to bed at a reasonable hour; I don’t go […]
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I should spend more time in Argentina, I thought to myself as I perused a map of South America. I was in Mexico City trying to decide where I should travel next. Why don’t I spend more time in Argentina? I thoughtfully considered. Was there a reason I didn’t travel to Argentina regularly? My gaze left Google Maps and drifted dreamily into the distance — a congested sidestreet where traffic honked and pedestrians scampered (probably — or maybe; I don’t really know this is a fictitious recollection for dramatic effect). Had I been avoiding Argentina? Hm, no not particularly. But the question was interesting – as much as I am working to improve my Spanish, and as much as I have enjoyed the places I have visited in Argentina, Cordoba, Mendoza, and Buenos Aires– it didn’t really make sense that I didn’t spend more of my time there. I should spend more time in Argentina. Well, I thought, what better time to visit than now? It was autumn in Argentina, and apparently a really nice time to visit. I tucked the thought into my mind and continued on with other tasks. That afternoon, I was walking through La Condesa, a […]
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It had been seven years since the last time I was in Chile. I’ve never been particularly fond of Santiago despite spending a month there in 2016 and passing through in 2005 on my way to Tierra del Fuego. That being said, I realize that I have never really done Santiago “right.” I’ve stayed in inconvenient neighborhoods and not really taken advantage of the features of the city that so many locals enjoy. Since I am spending an increasing amount of time in South America, and Santiago is such a convenient hub for launching into Patagonia and other destinations up and down Chile, it would be really convenient if I could find a reason to want to come back, for longer and make Santiago part of my regular rotations, like Bogotá and Mexico City. So when I was leaving Mexico, en route to Brazil, I took the opportunity to stop over in Santiago for three days. I only had three nights, so I picked a new neighborhood to stay in, Providencia, in hopes of experiencing a new side of the city. I found Providencia for working and staying. Lots of hustle and bustle of morning work commuters, plenty of restaurants […]
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After leaving Mexico City, I spent a week road-tripping around Mexico. The first stop was San Miguel de Allende, a city of roughly 200,000 people, 170 miles northwest of Mexico City. Though I only had two nights in San Miguel, I managed to see and do a lot: exploring old ruins, horseback riding, visiting a Mayan Spa, and eating a lot of delicious food typical of the region. San Miguel is replete with small boutique shops selling hand-crafted goods as well as cafes and restaurants. The central square abuts the main cathedral and is currently the most charming place I’ve found in Mexico. I visited here on Easter Sunday, at night and watched and listened to mariachi bands performing under the stars. The cobbled sidewalks present a romantic pathway for a stroll through the colorful neighborhoods. San Miguel makes a great destination to visit for a weekend from Mexico City, and I think I could return some day to stay for much longer.
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Mexico City is similar to Bogotá here on my website in that I hesitate to add additional entries since I visit regularly. My time here feels increasingly comfortable and routine and more like a typical life than in other, new, or exploratory places I pass through. You will find other entries on this website where I talk about why Mexico City is a comfortable and appealing place to live. Other ex-pats agree seemingly agree as the Covid pandemic has made living and working internationally more accessible, and more foreigners are relocating to Mexico City. As much as I could live in Mexico City for an extended period of time — I don’t like the idea of sticking around for too long. I keep an open mind that I may change in the future because now it feels like a curse — that I need to continually explore, discover and experience new environments. I have seen too much to be content with a single something. That’s tragic in a way — if I like a place that meets my needs, why should I still desire to discover other, new places? Years ago I remember deciding for myself that if the environment […]
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My sister and I came to Antigua to climb a couple of nearby volcanoes, Acatenango and Fuego. The weather didn’t cooperate for our excursion (unseasonably cold and windy), but we made the best of our time together in the city beforehand and afterward and atop Acatenango, waiting for the conditions to change. The town of Antigua is small and more touristy than I had anticipated. Hotels, restaurants, and cafes catering to the tourists who visit are everywhere, and so are we, visiting tourists. Nevertheless, the colonial, historic architecture and friendly locals made it a fun destination that was easily accessible from Guatemala City with only a 1.5-hour taxi ride. When I return to Guatemala, I’ll be excited to visit Lake Atitla,n which I am told is beautiful.
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I spent a few days in Guatemala’s capital city to get a sense of the local culture before I continued on to Antigua, after my sister, Tracy, arrived. Guatemala City left a comfortable impression on me, though other than the archaeological museum that I visited, and random wanderings around my neighborhood, I wasn’t able to get a real sense of the history or people. What I was able to perceive was genuine kindness from the locals. People greeted me with warm smiles, eye contact, and were happy to endure my Spanish as I asked questions and for recommendations. I also caught a glimpse of Maya culture, which is still very prevalent today, as Guatemala City itself sits atop multiple archaeological sites and burial grounds that the Mayans built. I spent three hours on a Sunday afternoon fascinated by the technologies that they developed — building materials, aqueducts, agriculture, roads, and even a fascinating number system.
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Another month and a half were spent enjoying the enigmatic charm of Bogotá. This time, I had the pleasure of hosting family and friends and becoming an ambassador of sorts for a city that can be a challenge to appreciate. However, once you learn to enjoy Bogotá’s unique character, it becomes an entirely different experience. Navigating the city’s complexities is no small feat, with its notorious traffic, unpredictable downpours, and hidden gems. Yet, I take pride in my ability to unveil Bogotá’s special qualities while circumventing its less appealing aspects. On this visit, I had the opportunity to stay in the upscale Parque 93 neighborhood for the first time. While it’s undoubtedly one of the city’s most desirable areas, I often strive to avoid such comforts and conveniences. Embracing these luxuries can be a slippery slope, as they quickly become indispensable. I’ve even caught myself splurging on priority seating for flights to expedite my passage through immigration lines. It’s crucial to remain vigilant, as these indulgences can quickly consume any budget! Despite my love for Bogotá, I inevitably find a reason to depart its embrace. Yet, the city’s allure never fails to draw me back, time and time again.
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