[Narrated in the voice of David Attenborough] Buenos Aires believes it is a European city. Despite this fact, its close neighbors are Montevideo, Uruguay, and Sao Paulo, Brazil. The “porteños” who make their homes here in Buenos Aires belong to an Argentinian clade that identifies more with Italians than South Americans. Italian restaurants packed with pasta and pizza comprise traditional food here, along with generous portions of beef. Wine is also enjoyed on any occasion. When visiting Buenos Aires, one might wonder whether I am in Europe or Argentina. [end voice of David Attenborough].
It’s always a noticeable transition to Buenos Aires from the other places I visit in South America owing to the local Argentine Spanish accent, the distinct style of the neighborhoods I walk through, the delicious food, and the vast amounts of dog shit on the sidewalks. Every city has such similar, if distinct, charms. Among them, increasingly for me, is Argentina’s president Javier Milei, who embodies the persona of a black sheep political outsider and libertarian. His presidency is still in its infancy, but his changes are bombastic, controversial, and seemingly intelligent. Following his career and legacy will be interesting as he aims to revert the country’s economic challenges of the past thirty years.
In recent weeks, I have been doing my part to support the local Argentinian economy by directly funneling US currency into the bank accounts of restaurants and bars around Palermo. I found a convenient gym, too, just a 15-minute walk from my apartment, and on the way back, a perfectly convenient and handsome coffee shop called “Meme Coffee” where I would stop for an iced latte. The cafe has a funny tagline: “coffee for aesthetic people.” I’m not sure if the insinuation of arrogance is understood or if it is just a matter-of-fact statement. In any case, I tried to straighten my hair and put an overshirt on to conceal my post-gym sweaty grime before placing my order at the counter to play the role of an aesthetic person.
Late summer/early autumn seems to be the ideal time to visit; afternoons are sunny and warm, and evenings are cooler. I’m happy to report that BA is one of the international destinations where it is socially acceptable for locals to wear shorts (instead of pants) when it’s hot outside (hey Colombia, make that a thing, please?)—this time around I stayed two weeks in Palermo, a popular neighborhood owing to its wide sidewalks, overhanging trees, and top-rated bars and restaurants.
Palermo reminds me of other popular neighborhoods I have stayed in around South America – Miraflores (Lima), Parque 93 (Bogotá), Poblado (Medellín), Providencia (Santiago), Vila Olimpia (Sao Paulo), Leblon (Rio de Janeiro). I always stay in Palermo when I come to Buenos Aires. I’ve begun to grow a little bored of it, so next time I return, I hope to stay in Recoleta, another neighborhood in a different part of Buenos Aires.
