I spent a week in Krakow and a week in Warsaw working and exploring Poland for the first time. Somewhat surprisingly, after hearing many people tell me I would prefer historic Krakow to a “bland” Warsaw, I actually enjoyed Warsaw more.
Krakow is the city that wasn’t destroyed during World War 2 and so all of the old, historic architecture is still in place. And perhaps it’s charming — but at this point feel that I’ve seen so many charming European city centers that they all seem rather the same. Krakow is charming enough to attract multitudes of tourists (like me!) who traverse the historic districts in golf carts with guides (not like me!) who point and explain the charming histories of the neighborhoods.
I avoided the tour route and instead chose to experience Krakow culture by eating mountains of perogies — the pillowy-soft polish dumplings that come filled with just about everything: meat, cheese, fruit. I liberally spread sour cream on top of them and ate them by the dozen. Their appeal may be hard to appreciate without savoring yourself, but I’ll try to translate such a sensory experience into words: perogies have a warm, gummy-soft, chewy exterior that is so satisfying to bite into; you are rewarded with a steamy, soft, savory or sweet center that explodes with the juices of the filling. I can’t recall of a food I’d rate with a higher “mouth-feel” rating off of the top of my head — (perhaps cold, perfectly ripened watermelon or Asian pear).
A memory of Krakow that I am sort of amused and also embarrassed by is stopping at the corner markets each morning on the way to the local gym I joined to purchasing a strange green “milk” beverage flavored like pistachios and coconuts. It tastes exactly how you may imagine – sweet, highly-processed and green. Honestly, these are my favorite parts of travelling. Charming, historic European towns are second fiddle to green-colored, pistachio-coconut milk products.
However, my favorite part of my time spent in Krakow was spent setting a new personal-best high score on the pinball machine, Creature From The Black Lagoon. I originally played this machine about eight years ago while I was living and working in Melbourne, Australia. It is featured in a very cool pinball museum where after paying a reasonable entrance fee (about $15) you are free to play as many pinball games for as long as you want and they even serve beer. A much more delightful way to spend an afternoon than the holocaust tour.
By the time I departed for Warsaw, I was expecting to be underwhelmed but I really liked it. In retrospect I shouldn’t have been surprised — as a travel hipster I relish destinations that other people tell me I won’t like, and unfortunately I naturally seem to dislike those destinations everyone else always celebrates the most. Out of resolute stubbornness I will love the unlovable Bogotás, Montevideos and Warsaws of the world.
The things that are great about Warsaw are also the reasons I heard I wouldn’t enjoy it. Warsaw was razed during World War 2, yeah — but this allowed for a subsequent, well-designed, modern city to be constructed in its place. Now this might do much for inciting potential tourists to visit, but in terms of livability it is great. Ample public transit, lots of parks and space to breathe on sidewalks that invite pedestrians and wide roads that encourage bicycles. Sure numerous churches, old houses are gone forever but wouldn’t you prefer a city you enjoy living in to one that tourists want to visit?
My life is comprised entirely of those places that I choose to live and as such, I no longer consider a destination where I do not want to live, a good destination. Warsaw is a good destination for someone like me who lives during their travels; for a vacationer though I understand the historic romanticism of eastern Europe that Krakow exudes. It was fun to experience two flavors of the same country in both places.
