I was in Riga for a week. I was busy with work but really enjoyed the architecture. It’s a beautiful, peaceful city that made for a great visit. The highlight was one day exiting a café I was working from to have an old friend message me on my phone — “Reid did I just see you leave Rocket Bean Roastery here in Riga?” My friend Paul, who I hadn’t seen since I was in Lima, Peru in May, 2016 had recognized me from behind while working in the same café. We admired our good fortune — what are the odds of bumping into someone on the other side of the world like that. We had Dinner two nights later and shut the restaurant down talking US politics, work and alien conspiracy theories. Thanks for the great memory Paul. I keep my eyes open for you in every café I work from now.
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I spent a week during the end of August in Minsk with no expectations. Travelling like this — everything feels novel, new and interesting. My apartment was close to downtown and the city is very walkable, has a subway and even Uber. I joined a nautically-themed gym named Moby Dick and frequented “Surf Coffee” — a small coffee shop themed after a surf shop. I had to clarify to be sure that there was not any available surfing within at least three thousand miles from Minsk — it was assured that I was correct. As luck would have it I caught the tail end of watermelon season in Minsk and was able to carry one home each day after the gym. I ate spicy thai and many kebabs. I took a lot of photos, and generally really enjoyed my time in Minsk though I can assert that I didn’t much scratch the surface of history or culture, instead choosing to diffuse and derive it through my camera lens and belly. This must be how deaf, mute adventurers do it all of the time?
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I spent a week in Krakow and a week in Warsaw working and exploring Poland for the first time. Somewhat surprisingly, after hearing many people tell me I would prefer historic Krakow to a “bland” Warsaw, I actually enjoyed Warsaw more. Krakow is the city that wasn’t destroyed during World War 2 and so all of the old, historic architecture is still in place. And perhaps it’s charming — but at this point feel that I’ve seen so many charming European city centers that they all seem rather the same. Krakow is charming enough to attract multitudes of tourists (like me!) who traverse the historic districts in golf carts with guides (not like me!) who point and explain the charming histories of the neighborhoods. I avoided the tour route and instead chose to experience Krakow culture by eating mountains of perogies — the pillowy-soft polish dumplings that come filled with just about everything: meat, cheese, fruit. I liberally spread sour cream on top of them and ate them by the dozen. Their appeal may be hard to appreciate without savoring yourself, but I’ll try to translate such a sensory experience into words: perogies have a warm, gummy-soft, chewy exterior that […]
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Ukraine has the best traditional cuisine I never knew existed. My friend Zeke says that it’s just traditional Jewish fare — potato pancakes, lots of meat, pickled vegetables — not much bread. I arrived in time for the summer harvest of berries and purchased kilos of black berries and blue berries along with pickles, fermented cabbage and salads. My homemade breakfasts and dinners were charcuterie spreads. Many *good* restaurants in Kiev are open 24/7 which makes it one of the most comfortable cities I can remember to get well fed and affordably. The main, broad streets of Kiev are in some places paved in cobblestones offering intriguing contrast when opulent sports cars will actively accelerate and honk at you if you don’t cross the street quickly. This is a city where pedestrians yield to cars and even fear from them. And the small bunches of people who wait alongside me to cross the street — we seem to have solidarity against the other class of super-car-driving maniacs who want to run us over. I must only presume that during the winter months the dynamic is different, when snow piles up with the bitter cold — how do these same cars […]
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In 1986 a nuclear reactor in Chernobyl, Ukraine had a melt down and caused a drastic amount of radioactive fallout that was scattered around the rest of Europe. I feel obligated to learn about all of that and so I took a one-day trip from Kiev into the Chernobyl “exclusion zone” to learn and take photos. Unlike a quarantined zone, an exclusion zone is permanent. Due to the nature of the on-hundred thousand year high-half life of the radioactive isotopes contaminating parts of the 30km and 10km radius zones surrounding the disaster site, parts of the area will be dangerously tainted forever. Access to and from the exclusion zone is strictly enforced and controlled with rigorous access checks and security. Still, there is a large area that is safe to visit and explore with only very low, and perfectly safe radiation exposure. An unexpectedly cool part of the trip was discovering this magnificent, secret, gigantic radio tower built by the Soviets to try and anticipate nuclear attacks from the USA. It was securely guarded and hidden behind the guise of a children’s camp (replete with a fake bus stop decorated with childish, cartoon animal motifs). Conveniently located near the disaster […]
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I spent two very comfortable weeks living summer, urban life in Belgrade and I must say I was sad to leave when the time came. I visited Belgrade four years ago for the first time during a very short reconnaissance trip; the type I do to sniff out a location to decide whether or not I want to return for a longer period. My return was delayed due to destination obligation. Though travelers will claim to travel lightly we carry loads of obligation in terms of the places we both need to explore for the first time or return to again — a queue that perpetually lengthens. Best intentions are waylaid as new destinations appear. A slow, wonderfully inefficient heuristic for travel. Four years later, I returned. This time around I did Belgrade better by living in two separate neighborhoods for a week each. The first was one of the coolest neighborhoods I have ever lived in, Dorćol; it is a perfect place for an explorer to station themselves — accessible by walking to countless restaurants, bars, gyms. Dorćol made figuring out how to effectively live convenient and simple. Each night I took myself out to a delicious, dinner and […]
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Bora Bora is a bucket list destination that I visited for ten days after Moorea. It’s about 150 miles away from Tahiti and distinctly different from both owing to it being a luxury honeymoon destination. Not surprisingly, Bora Bora is a difficult nomad destination as the entire economy, infrastructure and lifestyle is centered around the tourist industry. Because of this it was hard to live like a local — because every local is deeply entrenched in making money from tourists. I spent seven days on the mainland of Bora Bora, right beneath the summit of its captivating, central mountain, Mt. Otemanu, in an Airbnb. One thing that was surprising is that even though the island is very small, everyone who lives here uses cars to get around from place to place. There is even traffic in the main town of Vaitape during the busy hours. Ironically, the cost of renting a car is over $100 a day. Bicycles are $20 a day. I ended up renting a scooter for a day ($70) to circle the island — which only took an hour, and then renting a bicycle for three days to get into town and to the only sand beach on […]
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I spent 10 days on the island of Moorea after Tahiti and it was an invited change of pace to move from a bigger, busier island, to one that felt more off of the radar. It’s only 20 kilometers north west of Tahiti, and about one-fifth the size but the differences between the two Polynesian islands are striking. Fewer tourists take the 30 minute ferry ride to visit Moorea; fewer visitors equates to fewer locals comparative to Tahiti which is probably because there are fewer jobs. Fewer people means fewer cars, less traffic — in the end it means that this place feels more secluded. When you are in the south pacific on an island, that feeling of seclusion augments the romanticism and mystique of the natural environment and native history. Everything feels more special. Moorea can be circumnavigated in a car in a little over an hour — which is about 1/3 of the time it takes for Tahiti. The mountainous geology, scenic ocean views and variety of beautiful things to see are comparatively more concentrated; I found the destinations more accessible on here. You can hike over the center, mountainous mainland whereas Tahiti’s is largely inaccessible. The best […]
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100 years ago in 1919, my mother’s father, Gage Frick, departed Kansas City at age 21 to live in French Polynesia for an entire year. He took a tramp steamship from California along with a chest of books that he read. He lived in a hut on beach property owned by family acquaintances. My mother and aunt have at least one photo of him on the beach of Tahiti with some topless female locals. He stayed on Tahiti for an entire year. He had family business obligations and was probably eager to start his life and career, so at some point it was necessary for him to return home. 65 years later at age 85 he returned to Tahiti. Apparently he was surprised and somewhat disappointed that the island had changed so much since his departure; he had been accustomed to riding a bicycle, and suddenly cars were everywhere. Throughout my childhood I remembered my grandfather as very old and somewhat of a curmudgeon. He was in his mid 80s when I was old enough to realize who he was. Many of my memories of him involve inadvertently vexing him by crying, taking large bites of my breakfast at the […]
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Since December I had it in mind to head to the South Pacific. I thought Hawaii would be a nice stop-over destination where I could adjust to the time zone, figure out my daily sleep and work rhythm and meet my family for a week; my nephew was on his middle school spring break and my father is retired and very into bird watching. While this year I’m doing my best to minimize time spend in the USA during 2019 on account of qualifying for expat tax benefits (only 35 in USA during a 12 month period), I figure reconnaissance of a new US destination while touching base with my family was the best way to spend a week – Dad could do some bird watching and my nephew and I could hit the beach. I found a convenient flight into Kona, Hawaii on The Big Island of Hawaii and while I had stopped there with my family on a cruise ship when I was 12 years old, I was intrigued to see what a longer visit would entail. I arranged for an Airbnb about fifteen minutes’ walk from Magic Sands Beach in Kona and figured I would awake at […]
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